Nice job, and like a steak ‘well done’. 🙂
Just ordered a few PT100’s. Short and a long one. And did start looking for the combination of the ppeltier and a PT100 and here it is, You did make a tastfull combination.
I, am interested in your code, for the pt100 adjustment calculation and you pc code how to talk with the fridge.
I guess you see my email addres. Thank you very much and bon apetit.
Hey, thanks. I’m away for a week, but I’ll dig out my old code when I get back and send it to you.
Just to let you know, the code is for the Forebrain microcontroller from Universal Air Ltd. and the computer code is written in Qt, mainly for Windows but you should be able to port it relatively easily.
Thats quick, thanks in advance, and have a nice week.
Hi. Cool project. Great help cause i also have a peltier mini fridge that i want to mod to a queen honey bee incubator. I just need to heat the inside to a constant 35 ºC. I also plan to have a LCD and PIC to control.
I will use a maxim ds18B20 digital factory calibrated temperature sensor, they are cheap and easily available.
For the pic i’ll use a picaxe 08M and problaby 30 lines of code.
Another diference i think it´s that mi fridge has an inside fan also that i want to keep venting the inside while the peltier is off, soo using ur helpfull schematic im thinking using the control circuit (transistor/NFET or relay) between the peltier and the switch circuit board. This switch circuit board has a sensor to the inside off the fridge, soo i dont know yet how it will afect my concept.
Keep coocking (food and circuits) 😉
Hey, awesome! Do you have a website for the project? I’d love to see how it turns out.
I know in my fridge, before modifications, there was a pair of yellow wires going under the heatsink, I highly suspect this is simply a PTC resistor, sometimes known as a “thermal fuse”, which was being used to turn off the power when the temperature got too high. I left it in there because the temperature trip point was a bit higher than the temperatures I wanted to cook at so it didn’t affect performance. If I needed to remove it I think it would have been simply the case of cutting the two yellow wires and attaching one end to the other.
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